Firefly's: Southern fare eases N.E. chill
While there are a few pretenders, there is but one place where you can find authentic Southern cooking in Central Massachusetts — Firefly’s in Marlboro.
Firefly’s, set part way up a hill on westbound Route 20 east of downtown Marlboro, is a bodacious helping of fine eating steeped in the rich tradition of the southland. Ribs, pulled pork, fried chicken, cornbread and collard greens pop up on the menu to the delight of anyone who has savored the traditional cuisine of more pleasant climes.
It was with a great deal of anticipation that the two of us made our way to Firefly’s on a wintry New England Friday evening in search of perfect pulled pork and a mess of greens.
Firefly’s is an anomaly in New England, with its Southern fried cuisine, lack of clam chowder or haddock on the menu, and warm hospitality. From the outside, Firefly’s may look like a typical chain restaurant but it is locally owned and stands alone, since the Framingham Firefly’s closed last fall.
Overseeing the operation is Steve Uliss, a barbecue chef who claims more than 50 national barbecue cook-off awards, including the Massachusetts BBQ Championships. The night we visited he made the rounds of tables and engaged his customers in wide-ranging conversation, while assuring that everyone’s meal was up to expectations.
Diving into the menu, we realized that any one of the appetizers could be a meal unto itself. Riding the spirit of the occasion, I ordered Carley’s Combo ($14.99), which brought together Firefly wings, St. Louis ribs, fried dill pickles, onion straws and buttermilk-battered chicken tenders.
The items were neatly arranged on an oversized plate, and the accompanying sauces and dips complemented each appetizer. They were perfectly prepared and delicious. Additional barbecue sauces were available at a central sauce and condiment bar.
After an initial bite, there was no doubt that the crab cake extraordinaire ($10.99) was aptly named. Chunks of crabmeat were suspended in a savory matrix of Old Bay seasoning, mustard and scallions without a hint of bread crumbs, mayonnaise or filler. The crab cake was baked, rather than fried, and served with a Creole remoulade.
To my taste, there could have been more Old Bay in or on the single cake, but my partner liked them the way they were. Her disappointment focused on the fact that there was only one crab cake. We agreed that this was the best crab cake we had experienced since leaving the shores of Chesapeake Bay.
Other appetizers of note included Southern Porked Mac ‘n’ Cheese ($5.99), macaroni and cheese with pulled pork; cracklin’ bread ($8.99), flatbread grilled with Vidalia and green onions, bacon cracklins and smoked mozzarella; burnt ends ($8.99), the fattiest part of a brisket smoked for 14 hours; and candy lacquered bacon ($6.99), apple-smoked bacon with a brown sugar glaze.
Because we wanted to try as many specialties as possible, we each went for a combo. Firefly’s combos allow you to select two ($16.99), three ($18.99) or four ($23.99) meats from a list of 10. Cornbread and two sides are served with the combos to make the meal.
St. Louis ribs, baby back ribs and pulled pork were my three-meat combo choices, while my partner decided on Jamaican chicken and a single link of chorizo. The ribs were juicy and nearly fat-free, the pulled pork firm, the chicken breast had a nice kick to it while the chorizo was mostly meat with little fat.
The sides were outstanding. Between us we chose collard greens, spicy baked beans, red beans and dirty rice, and sweet potato fries. They were served with hunks of sweet cornbread,
In addition to the combos, Firefly’s has 13 entrée items, including four types of chicken, three different steaks, three seafood choices and Southern Tacos, which featured pulled pork, chicken or steak along with traditional taco fillings.
Not everyone favors Southern cooking, so Firefly’s has a variety of burgers that range in price from $9.49 to $11.99, including the Bodacious Bar-B-Que and a veggie burger.
The menu also listed 12 variations of pizza ($9.99 to $12.99) and Authentic New Orleans Seafood Gumbo ($15.99).
For dessert we selected the red velvet cake ($6.49), which was prepared in the classic Southern style. The cake was pleasingly moist but not sticky, and the cream cheese frosting was robust but not overly sugared.
Each day Firefly’s prepares a pie-of-the-day ($8.99), and the night we visited it was coconut custard. Expecting a slice of pie, we were surprised when our server presented an entire individual pie still in the aluminum baking pan and warm from the oven. We learned that the pies are prepared daily and baked when ordered.
The pie was marvelous and beautifully prepared — a thick, delicately flavored custard in an old-fashioned, homemade pie crust with shredded coconut and whipped cream. I could only manage to devour a third of the pie and took the rest home to savor the next two days.
Firefly’s fills a defined niche in the local restaurant scene and provides a window to really wonderful, authentic Southern dishes. And as a bonus, about half of our meal we had boxed to bring home.
Our meal for two, including beer and wine, came to a reasonable $94.20 before tax and tip. Not a bad price to pay for a slice of Americana.
350 East Main St., Marlboro Hours: Mondays through Thursdays 4:30 to 10 p.m., bar to 11 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 4:30 to 11 p.m., bar to 12:30 a.m.; Sundays 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., brunch to 2:30 p.m. Phone: (508) 357-8883 Website: www. fireflysbbq.com Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard. Prices: Low to moderate. Parking: Valet; lots adjacent to building Pluses: Professional, friendly and attentive wait staff; separate dining areas with booths and tables; separate bar/lounge area; live music in Dante’s. Minuses: Crowded and noisy at busy times due to popularity.